Hello everybody! I've been enjoying this site for long and have finally found enough time to write a first Instructable by myself. I'll will share with you how to make a real paracord bullwhip. It should not be that hard for those of you who know their way through ropes, knots and braiding.
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There are many kinds of whip, but the most popular for sport cracking and target cutting are the Australian Stockwhip and the Bullwhip.
This is a plait, 6-foot stockwhip with an inch, plait stock. Lengths are in American customary units, since for some reason whip lengths are measured in feet and it was easier to do all the calculations for strand drops in inches because of this.
I am also including instructions on how to make a 6-foot Bullwhip and a 6-foot pocket snakewhip. Since the differences lie in the handles the second two whips will merely show what is different from the stockwhip.
This is an advanced tutorial. I will show several complex knots and methods for creating fancy patterns on the stock. The reader should have a knowledge of basic knots, such as the constrictor knot , the sheet bend , the wall knot, the crown knot, the blood knot, and the Spanish ring knot.
I do assume a knowledge of plaiting braiding terms, and knowing how to plait braid will be helpful, though I do describe all over and under patterns. Explaining the tying of Turk's Heads and Globe knots would take up far more space than is available in this tutorial, so if you wish to use them I suggest KHWW.
I frequent the KHWW forum, and there are many helpful tools and articles on the site. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. About feet of paracord. Buy extra, just in case.
I can do it in , you will likely have more waste. BBs or very small lead shot. Bench vise not shown. Scissors can also be used. It is better to use a candle to heat-seal the ends of cord than to use the lighter directly. Especially a micro-torch like this thing, since it can melt copper. You are MUCH more likely to burn your fingers trying to mold the molten nylon than with a candle. The torch is just good because it can aim a flame straight down and still melt cord, which comes in handy when dropping strands.
Optional The globe knot cookbook set, by Don Burrhus. This is used if you want the "globe-knot-on-a-post" end, the Little Lump Knot end does not require this. I get my paracord from supplycaptain.
Bullwhips and snakewhips will use the BBs. Stockwhips and bullwhips will use the dowel. When sealing the ends, it is often best to make it pointed, for easier threading in a needle: Diagonal cut paracord is much easier to thread into a needle: 1 Pull the sheath back an inch or two, and cut off all the strands. Cutting the inner strands back like that makes sealing in general much neater.
The smoother the taper the better. I use a belt sander clamped upside-down in a vise to make the taper, a lathe would probably be better.
For a snakewhip, make 2 lengths, 3 feet and 1. Then, one at a time, feed BBs into the hollow cord. I push the BBs in with a long, thin steel rod. For the bullwhip, you only need to make about 12 inches of ballcord. Coat 3 inches of it with epoxy, put some epoxy into the hole in the handle, and push the cord into the hole.
Let it dry. This must be secure for a proper whip. For either bullwhips or stockwhips, to improve strength and durability it's best to have a metal rod inserted through the center of the dowel.
This requires either boring a hole through the center with a lathe, or splitting the rod, carving a channel in both sides, and gluing it back together.
Since this requires additional tools lathe or precise saw or buying a pre-made handle I have left it out. It won't significantly affect the performance of the whip, but will require a bit more care in handling. If someone steps on the stock it might break without the reinforced handle, so don't leave whips lying around not that you should do that anyway. For the bullwhip, cut 3 strands, 1x 63", 1x 45", 1x 27". Bind them to the ballcord sticking out of the handle, and tape the binding point to the handle.
For the snakewhip, cut 2 strands, 1x 72", 1x 54". Use the 2 pieces of ballcord and bind just as in the stockwhip. Cut and gut 4 strands for the belly, sealing the ends with a candle. Lay the core on top of the belly. Cross the "top" strands of the belly, then O1U1 pattern back to their respective sides. Repeat this. Keep repeating this until there are 6 crossings.
Then flip the whole thing over about the long axis of the whip. Around the back, Under 2, Over 2. Do the same on the other side. Bind the end with the diamond plait in a vice so you can pull the plaiting tight. Pull tight, then do the U2O2. Pull tight, plait loose. It's much easier and will give you a better whip than trying to pull tight after plaiting a strand through.
After 1. Take 2 strands, wrap them a bit around the core. Then cut them off and seal them to the core. Now we drop to a 4-plait. This is easy, just go O1U1 on both sides. Continue for another 18 inches, cut off all the cords, seal the ends, and bind them to the core with a constrictor knot in artificial sinew.
The belly is complete, but probably a bit lumpy. Now roll the whip on a hard floor under a board. Get the strand drops to taper smoothly. Wrap the first inches of the belly tightly with electrical tape. Roll it again. I've attached pictures of the finished 8, 6, and 4-plait braids. It should give a slight pop, and a nice smooth roll-out. A reasonably good whipcracker will be able to tell if there are any errors, even if the belly alone can't be cracked though it should optimally be crackable.
Make a fall. Take a piece of paracord about 36" long, gut it, and make a hole just off-center from the middle with a marlinespike. Then thread the end through the hole using a threaded needle. And then cut the end off where both strands are still present, and heat seal it all together. For the overlay there are 12 strands total, so 6 strands folded over. I don't fold them in half, that wastes cord when dropping strands.
Instead I chose how many strands will go all the way to the end usually 6 or 4 and figure out the length of the side strands. When using two colors make sure to have all of one color on one side and the other on the opposite side. For a bullwhip I add 18" to all the strands to account for the thickness of the handle. For a bullwhip or snakewhip I also don't plait a loop for the keeper, instead I wrap it straight onto the handle, just like when doing the belly.
For the stockwhip's keeper loop, start a diamond plait as before. Cross the center strands of each side. Bring them O1U1 to the outsides. The new innermost strands cross and go O1U1 to the outside.
Repeat for the last 2 strands. Now it's time to flat braid! The opposite strand goes U1O1U1. Repeat 3 times. And do the same for the other set of 6 cords.
Interweave the adjacent sets of strands, O1U1, being sure to preserve the strands own OU sequence. One at a time weave the strands from the "upper" groups of cord through, O1U1.
Place the belly on the diamond. And plait O1U1 for at least 6 crossings. First, determine the length of the thong of your whip for a stock or the whole whip for a snake or bullwhip. Eg 6 ft.
Skip to main content Paracord Bullwhip. Currently unavailable. I've never owned a nylon, single-tailed whip before, so this review is as much a review them as it is of Ardour Crafts. I wanted to try one of these paracord jobs and found that the blogs on this product were right on the money. They are more weather-resistant than the leather, don't dry out, don't mildew, etc.
Making a Paracord Whip