HP 8481A PDF

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It appeared on the market about , and still today, these devices are very much thought after. Quite some detail about this sensor can be found in the HP Journal, edition pages 19ff. There is says that the sensor can withstand mW power, and even 0. Still, there are many sensors around that are blown — why do so many people connect them to 0.

I have no idea! Note the capacity values — measures: 3. This is all real gold on sapphire substrate! I found there are four screws. Good idea to bypass one of the thermocouples. Will try to attach a SMD with some conductive epoxy. I had experience that the gold on sapphire substrate was totally dissolved by normal Sn-Pb solder. Maybe pure indium solder could ease this phenomenon. Never tried to use indium on sapphire substrate only used if for contacting ceramics-supraconductors.

The conductive epoxy I can recommend is E-Solder , it is not cheap, but if you keep it in the fridge not freezer it will keep well for a long time. Could the epoxy still have good conductivity in the several GHz and microwave frequency? I just purchased some pure indium and would begin experiment several days later. Absolutely, conductive silver epoxy is also used by in industrial production, fo GHz purposes. All you need is a steady hand! Silver paste solder is an option? Hi Rene, to measure if the elements are defect, you need to remove the sensor element from the device which is a bit tricky, because of the gold wires, etc.

Maybe if the reference is blown, and you replace it by a resistor, you could still get some readings from the power meter, with very much offset baseline, and accuracy would be gone anyway, but may still be usable for some test purposes. E-solder or other type of silver conductive glue may work for some few years on such substrate and geometry.

With this setup, especially 40 dB, a multi-watt overdrive will blow the much cheaper attenuator rather than the precious sensor. I only remove the attenuators in a known low-level verified with the attenuators before environment.

When not in use, terminate the sensors into small low-power 50 ohms loads. Do not use the attenuators since they make the unit large and more prone to mechanical failure. Thank you for the insights, I didnt know about the damage levels being so close. Normally the generators I use dont have more than 20 dbm, so no big risk, but I will be even more mindful when working on amplifiers. I do use attenuators with the sensors also to protect the connectors, only in some cases where high precision or full range is required I attach the sensor directly.

I had 1 sensor with a good TC chip and a broken gold lead on the ground side and a number of sensors with bad chips to experiment on. First try was the silver conductive conducting glue sold in syringes.

Not strong enough — a total waste of time. I ended up using a Zeny station instead of my Weller because I could set tip temperature other than a magnetically controlled C or C tip. A small wedge tip about 2mm across worked fine to solder to the ground side and no problem with the gold coming loose from the sapphire substrate.

The original gold wire measures about 0. I used silver plate 30 WW wire the normal stuff we used all the time for WW. I strip off an inch or so of the WW wire insulation, tin the end. A dab of 0.

This worked just fine. Trim the end of the new wire to length of original lead with A1 set in place. It would be valuable to have someone with the calibration equipment evaluate performance of a sensor repaired this way to an original with bonded gold wire combination across the sensor frequency range.

Sounds like this had mechanical damage, maybe from being dropped. Good to known it can be fixed. I had some luck in similar cases with two component silver epoxy, and in other cases with some indium, which is a soft metal that sticks to ceramics very well and easily melts. The sensor should still be good for everyday general purpose, I would just check it for reasonable operation by connecting it to a sweeper and checking at various frequencies.

Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Like this: Like Loading RF sensors, especially the diode ones are static sensitve. These sensors are so precious and useful, you can not afford to blow one. Starting at C was not quite enough C worked fine for me.

The tiny conical tip used on the ground side got the heat sucked out of it too fast to solder. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. SimonsDialogs — A wild collection of random thoughts, observations and learnings. Presented by Simon.

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