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Log in or Sign up. Overclockers UK Forums. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More. Show only OP. Jun 29, at PM 1. Being the EE that I am, I'm always up for a little electronics challenge.

There seem to be many sites with sporadic links and sources to good sites so since I'm putting in a lot of effort finding this information I wanted to log the elements that helped me fix the YLOD and share the information so you can fix yours too. Last edited: Jul 6, Jun 29, at PM 2.

I initially tried take a non-intrusive approach, contacting the console vendor to see if they would take a return and also Sony to see what they could offer. These two options don't really work.

If I sell the console to the vendor then I loose all the data and the disc that's trapped within. After a lot of research I've found many claming that their Sony repaired consoles went back to the YLOD after only a few months.

Pair that with the fact you can buy a brand spanking new console for a little more I found a few posts about owners sending their PS3s back to Sony to repair and warned to make sure you only send the console itself, because that's all they need. Additional cables and controllers may not find their way back to you. My game store also mentioned that I should remove the HDD before sending the console back to Sony because there have been many cases of Sony sending consoles back with wiped HDDs.

Last edited: Jun 30, Jun 29, at PM 3. Unfortunately there are several items on the HDD that are irreplaceable graduation photos, purchased music, saved games, etc and the data must be retrieved.

After researching methods to backup the HDD, it turns out that only the source console can access the data. This will not work. After opening 'Disk Management' I could see the drive but it was not accessible. I also found posts of others literally swapping their dead PS3 HDD's into newly purchased PS3's and the console asked to perform a reformat. So I've got absolutely no way to access the data other than by repairing the console and then transferring the data when it's up and running.

Last edited: Jun 29, Jun 29, at PM 4. As for the trapped disc, there are two methods I've found but non of which work for the launch model PS3.

I also found posts about people successfully fishing their discs out with a pair of tweezers. A member of staff at my local game store had mastered a method of using two paper clips fashioned to go into the drive slot and lift the disc and pull out. Both sounded a little too reckless for both the disc and the drive.

Jun 29, at PM 5. Jun 29, at PM 6. After considering all this and reading through TTDegs options , I've got no choice but to repair this console. It's the most cost efficient, fastest chance of getting my data and disc back.

Which is a shame because once you remove the warranty seal sticker, Sony will still accept the console for a refurbish source but your game store will not buy it from you. There were many people talking about how they scammed their stores by using the 'towel around the PS3 and shooting a hair dryer into the vents for 20 mins" method, which would get the system working for a few hours enough to back up data and sell it as a working console to a game shop. There were others that used a hairdryer to heat up the warranty seal and take a blade to remove it, then stick it to wax paper and disassembled the system, repaired it and put the sticker back on so they weren't hindered by the options lost after breaking the seal.

I like my local game store, I've bought so many decent releases and have been given some great advice from them. Doing something like this would only hurt the game store. I saw posts discussing that the game store would offer 30 day warranty on pre-owned consoles so that's a piece of mind for these scammers.

Jun 29, at PM 7. Just strip it down and give it some heat gun treatment. This doesn't always work.. If it's proper fubar then strip it down again and take the drive out. Jun 29, at PM 8. It appears that there are a few repair options but non seem to last for more than a few months.

One of the difficulties when researching this was finding out how long a fix would last, you'd find elated responses that a method worked but then several more saying "yeah I've fixed mine about 5 times now and Attempt a recommended repair that seems to get the longest results.

Purchase a brand new PS3. Looks like the XMB direct transfer from one console to another is the best sure fire way to get everything transferred. Here's a useful explination of that method I found:. Jun 30, at AM 9. Jun 30, at AM So looking into repairs. I've also seem too many posts saying that this can irreparably damage your console, so it can work for a few hours but once it breaks you can't get it working ever again.

This isn't the fix for me, but if you want to chance it you might get enough time for it to turn on and backup the data before it dies forever. Some people have said that the HDD failure can cause it only for that to be dispelled by another poster. The common quote is "YLOD is an over heating issue that causes a hardware malfunction. Back in the day we used to use solder that contained lead, but in current years due to health and safety it's very uncommon to use solder containing lead.

When the PS3 hardware heats up the solder expands ever so slightly as any metal does and when it cools down it contracts.

This repetitious expansion and contraction is handled fine with leaded solder but the lead free solder will diminish and cracks will form after time. These extreme heat methods aim to get the solder to a melting point, this process is called reflow.

Lead free solder melts at a slightly higher temperature so around oF is where you'll start see melting regular solder is at about oC. The problem is that when heating, these chips are pushed very close to their maximum heat rating so it's very risky. So heating to a lower temperature is the safer way but only causes the solder to melt slightly and produce a partial connection, which will fail in a relatively short period.

Source There is also the issue of flux contained in solder. Flux acts as a lubricant for the solder and allows it to attach to the pads with a much cleaner and better spread. Every time you reflow solder you burn off a little of the flux contained inside the solder, so applying flux before starting your reflow is also going to help with how long the fix lasts.

This explains why the process works but only for a certain duration of time. The video below shows how in six steps but surely the plastic plastic components on his motherboard were completely distorted after this. I don't see it as a good option. He's really done a fantastic job of explaining how to take apart your system and showing exactly which screws and how to lift to protect ribbon cables.

His six part guide is also accompanied by a PDF but what most posters miss is the additional flux and clamp bending video. It turns out that this aluminum is a plate covering the chips below with thermal paste between. I tried to intentionally remove this plate but it's on really tight and wouldn't budge so I'll skip that 'extra sure' step. Another pointer:. Here's a few pictures of where I've got so far.

All parts have been dismantled and hoovered out plus I've just finished removing the thermal paste from everywhere too. Next will be the heat gun that can hit oF They seem to be pretty cheap but very loud. Alrik Mobster Joined: Nov 5, Posts: 4, You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content. Your Username or Email Address: Do you already have an account?

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Reparing Your PS3’s Yellow Light of Death!



Gilksy's Playstation 3 (PS3) Yellow Light of Death (YLOD) Fix and Repair Guide


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